The Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2015 collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, represented a pivotal moment in the brand's history. While the "Prorsum" moniker would eventually be dropped, this collection showcased the label's signature blend of British heritage and modern, youthful energy, leaving a lasting impact on the fashion world. This deep dive into the collection will explore its runway looks, beauty elements, the models who brought it to life, critical reviews, and also delve into the broader context of Burberry Prorsum as a brand, its meaning, and its eventual phasing out.
A Whimsical Garden Party: The Runway Looks
Christopher Bailey, then Chief Creative Officer, envisioned a collection inspired by a romantic English garden, a theme reflected in the vibrant colors, delicate prints, and flowing silhouettes. The show itself was a spectacle, a testament to Burberry's mastery of staging. The collection wasn't solely about delicate femininity, however. It expertly blended romanticism with a sharp, contemporary edge.
Key elements included:
* Floral Prints: Intricate floral patterns, rendered in watercolor-like washes and bold, graphic designs, adorned dresses, skirts, and blouses. These prints weren't merely decorative; they were integral to the overall aesthetic, conveying a sense of delicate beauty and effortless charm. Some prints were subtly vintage-inspired, while others felt strikingly modern.
* Sheer Fabrics: Transparency played a significant role, with sheer fabrics layered over structured pieces, creating a sense of depth and intrigue. This layering technique added a touch of allure without sacrificing the overall sense of lightheartedness.
* Pastels and Bright Hues: The palette ranged from soft pastels – blush pink, lavender, mint green – to vibrant pops of color, such as sunny yellow and deep coral. This juxtaposition of gentle and bold shades contributed to the collection's captivating duality.
* Silhouettes: The silhouettes were varied, showcasing a range of styles. Flowing maxi dresses and skirts contrasted with sharply tailored trench coats and structured jackets. There were playful mini dresses, perfect for a summer's day, alongside more formal, elegant gowns.
* Embroidery and Detailing: Intricate embroidery and delicate embellishments added a touch of luxury and craftsmanship. These details, often floral-inspired, further enhanced the romantic garden theme.
* Modern Trench Coats: The iconic Burberry trench coat was reimagined in various fabrics and colors, reflecting the season's overall aesthetic. Some were rendered in lightweight fabrics, perfect for warmer weather, while others retained the classic structure and feel.
Beauty and the Models: A Harmonious Ensemble
The beauty look for the Spring/Summer 2015 show was equally important in conveying the overall theme. Makeup artist Wendy Rowe created a natural, radiant look, emphasizing fresh skin and a soft, romantic glow. Hair was styled in loose, effortless waves, complementing the flowing silhouettes of the clothing. The overall effect was one of understated elegance, allowing the clothing to take center stage.
The models themselves were a diverse group, reflecting Burberry's commitment to inclusivity. Many of the industry's top models walked the runway, each bringing their unique personality and style to the collection. The casting choices further enhanced the sense of effortless cool that permeated the entire show.
Critical Reviews: A Mostly Positive Reception
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